Microneedling or “rolling” as it has become commonly known as in the industry, is one of the newer technologies for skin rejuvenation.
There is often a lot of confusion between home treatments and the professional treatment with a roller as well as understanding the different types, hopefully this will clear up a few misunderstandings.
Professional rolling, this is performed by a skilled and trained therapist, the needles on the professional rollers are normally 0.5 mm long however they are available in 1.0mm for more severe cases of scaring and badly sun damaged skin. Due to the depth these needles penetrate, this would be painful if not for the topically applied anesthetic which make this treatment pain free.
The professional treatment gives two major benefits. The first is that the needles penetrating the skin leave channels directly to the dermis, this is useful for applying active ingredients that need to be delivered to stimulate regeneration.
The other huge plus with this treatment is that the small injury caused by the needle
stimulates the growth of new collagen which leads to firmer and better textured skin. This is known in the industry as collagen induction therapy.
The channels to the dermis close after 40 minutes, meaning the client leaves a treatment without anything on their face except the specialized serum that has been applied. They are advised to only use a moisturizer, sunscreen or make after this period has passed.
The roller treatment for home use is very different, it offers no collagen synthesis at all. Home roller needles should never be longer than 0.2 mm. This means two things, one that there should be no discomfort experienced as the needles aren’t stimulating the neurons in the dermis and two there is no collagen synthesis because the needles never reach the dermis. There is no anesthetic needed for the home treatment with a roller.
What is the point of it all you may ask, well the idea behind the home roller is product penetration. Your skins job is to be a barrier against the environment and to stop you swelling up like a sponge every time you get into a bath. This means it is extremely difficult to get any active ingredients needed in the dermis to stimulate cell renewal and regeneration.
The small needles push aside the corneocytes of the epidermis in order to allow active ingredients into the skin, and giving you a much better benefit from your serums. These micro channels with home rolling stay open for only a few seconds opposed to 40 minutes.
This is not to say that all products should be rolled in at home, clients are again specifically instructed on what to roll in and usually product houses have special active serums that are recommended for use with their roller. There are products specifically designed to target the dermis, while others are meant to sit in the top layers of the skin.
There are many different brands and quality levels of needling tools, it is important to deal with a trained professional when seeking to buy one.
These treatment should treatments are typically overseen by a dermatologist or therapist, and the client is advised accordingly.
NOTE: When doing any therapy that involves regeneration eg, lasers, needling, radio frequency. It is best to ensure you are taking all the necessary supplements and skin support to ensure good healing, as well your skin care professional assessing your skin and giving you the all clear to go ahead with the treatment in terms of your skin health. If you are experiencing poor immunity and a weak barrier you should avoid intensive treatments.
picture from http://www.popsugar.co.uk/
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